When you return a week later all the eggs in the top box will have hatched and the youngest larvae left will be about four days old i.e. too old to be reared as new queens. Therefore, when you destroy all the new queen cells in the top box, you prevent the colony swarming.

Read: Why do bees swarm?
Wikipedia: Demaree method

In the world of beekeeping and pest relocation, there’s a common misconception that removing a colony from a building requires swinging a sledgehammer and tearing down walls. But at Rampark Ridge, Johannesburg, we recently proved that sometimes, the best tool isn’t a crowbar—it’s biology.

When a colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) moved into a cavity under a homeowner’s bathtub, we didn’t reach for the power tools. Instead, we performed a trap-out.

What is a Trap-Out?

A trap-out is a specialized, non-destructive removal method that uses the bees’ own instincts against them. The goal is to patiently lure the entire colony out of a structural cavity and into a new hive box without breaking a single brick.

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The Scent of an Old Flame

Why did the bees choose a bathtub in Rampark Ridge? It turns out they had “roommates” before. Although a previous colony had been removed, the entrance—a small vent—wasn’t perfectly sealed.

Bees have an incredible sense of smell. The lingering scent of old wax and pheromones acts like a neon “Vacancy” sign for new swarms. To start the process, we had to clear the workspace and begin the meticulous task of sealing every crack and crevice.

The Secret: Total Entrance Control

The success of a trap-out hinges on one word: Control. We installed a trap box against the wall, but the real magic happened with the sealant. Using a waterproofing membrane, we closed off every possible exit except for one. We then funneled that last remaining exit into our box.

Inside the box, we placed old frames of honeycomb. This acts as a powerful attractant. The bees exit the wall through a one-way cone-shaped door. They can get out into the light and the box, but the design makes it nearly impossible for them to find their way back into the wall.

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Outsmarted by “Intelligent” Insects

Even the best-laid plans face challenges. The next day, the bees proved just how crafty they are. They found a tiny weakness—two pieces of plating that had shifted—and created a new “back door.”

Pro Tip: Trap-outs require persistence. You have to observe the colony’s behavior and return to plug any new holes they find. It’s a game of chess between the beekeeper and the bees.

To add an extra layer of “insurance,” we installed a Queen Guard. This is a small piece of a queen excluder that allows worker bees to pass through but is too small for the Queen. If she tries to leave with a swarm, she stays put, ensuring we don’t lose the colony.

The 21-Day Rule: Why It Takes Time

You might wonder why a trap-out takes about three weeks. It all comes down to the brood cycle:

• Day 1: We cut off the food supply. No new nectar or pollen enters the wall nest.
• The Queen Stops: Sensing the lack of resources, the queen stops laying eggs.
• The Hatch: It takes roughly 19 to 21 days for all the existing bee larvae (the brood) inside the wall to hatch.
• The Exodus: Once the last baby bee has emerged and realized there’s no food in the wall, the entire colony is ready to abandon the old nest for the “land of plenty” in our hive box.

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Moving Day

On the final night, we returned to find the box overflowing with bees—a great sign. We used a little smoke to encourage the stragglers inside, removed the trap-out equipment, and sealed the box for transport.

These bees are now heading to a local apiary where they can thrive, pollinate, and make honey in a home that isn’t under someone’s bathtub.

Think you might have a colony moving into your walls? Don’t reach for the sledgehammer just yet.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Tonight we’re 20 feet up on a slippery roof in Dainfern Estate, Gauteng. Removing a swarm from roof tiles over a glass balustrade is high-stakes work, but the real danger lies in the tactical mistakes beekeepers often make.

If you don’t get the strategy right, you risk serious injury or—worse—simply leaving a “vacancy” sign for the next swarm to move right back in. Here are the three biggest mistakes to avoid during a technical roof removal.

Mistake #1: The Dark Comb Trap

Homeowners often think a swarm is brand new because they only just noticed it. However, the comb tells the real story.

• The Discovery: Even if bees arrived “recently,” we often find dark, heavy wax and old propolis under the tiles. This is a clear sign that the cavity has been inhabited before.
• The Trap: Assuming a hive is new means you might not be prepared for the sheer volume of old honey and resources already stored there. Old comb is heavy and holds heat, which can make it more difficult to handle without it collapsing.

Mistake #2: Suction Loss with Long Hoses

It’s tempting to leave the heavy BeeVac on the ground and just run a long extension hose up the ladder, but this is a major tactical error.

• Vanishing Suction: As the hose gets longer, air velocity drops significantly. Instead of safely catching the bees, a weak vacuum just annoys them, causing the colony to scatter into deeper, unreachable crevices.
• Bee Mortality: Professional beekeepers have noted that longer pipes can actually increase bee mortality during the transfer. We haul the entire vacuum system onto the roof to keep the hose short and the intake velocity high, ensuring the African honeybees and their queen remain safe.

Mistake #3: Leaving a “Bee Hotel” Behind

The job isn’t finished just because the bees are gone. An empty roof cavity is a perfectly regulated environment that is highly attractive to new scout bees.

• The Cycle: If you just replace the tiles, the lingering scent of wax and pheromones will act as a beacon for the next swarm.
• Permanent Proofing: To stop the cycle, we pack the entire void with polyester insulation. By removing the open space, we ensure there is no longer a viable “room” for future bees to build a nest. We also wipe down every drop of honey to prevent “robbing” frenzies from nearby colonies.

The Result: A Successful Sanctuary Transfer

Despite the slippery tiles and cramped gaps, we successfully secured the colony. Back at the sanctuary, we even spotted the queen—a slim, healthy leader—settling into her new frames.

Have you ever had a swarm return to the exact same spot on your roof? That usually means one of these steps was missed! Tell us your story in the comments. Don’t forget to Subscribe and hit the Like button to support humane bee conservation in South Africa.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! In my experience, the most dangerous bees are the ones you can’t see until you’re right on top of them. Tonight, we’re in Keng dealing with Apis mellifera scutellata—the African honeybee. They’ve moved into a borehole control box, making it impossible for the homeowner to even mow the lawn without a defensive response.

The Midnight Strategy: Red Lights and White Sheets

African honeybees are famously defensive, which is why we almost always work at night.

• The Red Light Advantage: We use red light because bees don’t perceive it the same way we do. If we used white light, the entire colony would be all over us the moment we broke the seal.
• The White Sheet Trick: Ethan and I lay down a white sheet under our workspace. It’s a simple trick that makes it much easier to spot any bees—or the Queen—if they drop off the comb during the move.
• Skipping the Smoke: I prefer not to use smoke if I can avoid it. Once the lid is open and the initial alarm settles, they generally calm down enough for us to work without the extra stress of smoke.

The “Goldilocks” Brood Pattern

Lifting the lid is always the moment of truth. As expected, they had built a substantial nest right onto the cover.

• Healthy Patterns: We found an incredibly healthy brood pattern. We decided to frame four frames of brood—which I call the “Goldilocks” amount. It’s enough to keep the colony motivated and warm, but not so much that they feel cramped in their new box.
• Temperature Matters: If the brood gets too cold during the transfer, the larvae can die and rot in the cells. This often causes the bees to “abscond” (abandon) the new hive. To prevent this, we actually put the newly framed brood directly into the BeeVac box with the bees for the drive home. This lets the workers cluster on the comb and keep it at that vital 38°C.

Bee-Proofing for the Future

We don’t just move the bees; we make sure the problem doesn’t come back. Once a cavity has been used by a hive, the lingering scent of wax is a magnet for future scouts.

• The Polyester Barrier: We use Fabul, a polyester insulation, to fill the void. By stuffing the control box, we ensure that any future scout bees see there is insufficient space to build a nest. It’s the most effective way to keep the borehole “bee-free.”

The Verdict: A Safe Transition

Back at the apiary, the transfer went smoothly. About 50% of the bees had already moved onto the frames during the drive, making the final move into the hive box nice and easy. By morning, they’ll be orientating to their new permanent home, and the homeowner can finally get back to the gardening!

Have you ever been surprised by a “stealth” hive in your garden? Tell us your story in the comments! If you enjoyed this late-night rescue, hit the Like button and Subscribe to join our mission.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! While the sky over Johannesburg was exploding with fireworks for Diwali 2025, we were in a glass garden shed in Ken facing an explosion of a different kind.

Usually, the African honeybees (Apis mellifera scutellata) in these sheds hide under the floorboards, but this colony decided to set up shop in a corner right behind a pile of camping gear.

The Camping Gear Obstacle Course

Working in a glass shed at night is a tactical challenge. We work after dark because scutellata can be incredibly defensive; doing this during the day would risk every person and pet in the neighborhood.

• The Danger of Shifting Gears: Moving stored items is often the most dangerous part of the job. If a camping bag shifts and crushes the bees or their nest, it triggers alarm pheromones, leading to a mass defensive response.
• Checking Escape Routes: Before we even started the vacuum, we had to check for gaps in the roof and panels. If the bees run into the wall cavities when we start, our job becomes ten times harder.

The Beauty of “Brittle” White Comb

As we cleared the gear, we revealed a stunning nest of brand-new, snow-white comb. It was a masterpiece, but a fragile one.

• Fresh and Brittle: New comb is incredibly brittle. One slip and the entire hive structure can collapse. I had to move with surgical precision to cut the sections away without destroying the nursery.
• The Heat of the Hive: Even though it was a cold night, the heat coming off the comb was amazing. Bees keep their brood at around 38°C. This warmth keeps the honey liquid; if the temperature drops, real honey will crystallize. That’s how you know store-bought honey that stays liquid forever isn’t the real deal!

A “Road Snack” and a Missing Queen

As we worked, we found some beautiful capped honey—the perfect “road snack” for a beekeeper! We also spotted a queen cell, which tells us this colony was already planning for the future.

• Sizing Up: We initially thought this was a small colony, but as we pulled out four large frames of brood, we started debating whether a six-frame catch box would be enough or if we needed to upgrade to a full 10-frame hive.
• The Hidden Queen: We didn’t spot her majesty in the brittle comb, but we read the “language” of the bees. They were clumping and moving with purpose towards safe areas, which is a classic sign that the queen is nearby. We focused on vacuuming the clumps, hoping she’d land safely in the BeeVac.

The Verdict: Safe from the Fireworks

Despite the distractions of the fireworks and the tight workspace, we managed to secure four frames of brood and a massive amount of bees. The shed is now safe for the homeowners to grab their camping gear, and the bees have a warm, dry hive to call their own.

Does your honey crystallize in the cupboard? That’s actually a sign of quality! Let us know your honey stories in the comments. Don’t forget to Subscribe and hit the Like button to support our mission this festive season.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Today, we were called to a backyard oasis that had become a bit of a “no-go zone.” A honeybee swarm had moved into a pool pump enclosure, and until they were safely relocated, the homeowner couldn’t perform essential maintenance or even turn on the filter without disturbing the hive.

The Plan Fails: Electrical Anchors

Our original strategy was simple: lift the entire plastic cover onto a white sheet so we could work on it in an open space. However, as soon as we started to lift, we hit a major obstacle.

• The Hardwired Hitch: The electrical box for the pump was hardwired through the side of the cover. These heavy-duty cables had us completely anchored.
• The Pivot: In beekeeping, you have to be flexible. Since we couldn’t move the enclosure, we had to perform a “surgical” removal right there, balancing the lid open. It was a risky maneuver—if the lid shifted, the fragile wax comb could break off and crush the colony below.

The “Holy Crap” Brood Reveal

Once we got the lid stabilized, we saw just how hard these bees had been working. Despite being a relatively new swarm, they had already built several large sections of brood comb.

• Survival Mode: Interestingly, there was almost no nectar or pollen stored yet. In the early stages of a new colony, it’s a race to grow the population. Survival depends on raising new workers as quickly as possible, not on hoarding food.
• The Vacuum Sweep: We used the BeeVac to clear the workers first. By removing the bees before touching the comb, we ensure we don’t accidentally squash the queen or drown the bees in leaking honey.

Disassembly and Rehousing

With the workers safely in the vacuum, we began the rhythmic process of removing the comb sections one by one.

• Framing the Nursery: We carefully placed the brood combs into our frames. Bees have a powerful instinct to protect their young, so keeping the brood intact is the best way to ensure the colony stays together in their new home.
• Every Bee Counts: With smaller hives like this, every individual matters. We took the extra time to grab the stragglers on the edges of the enclosure to ensure the colony remains strong enough to rebuild.

The Verdict: Maintenance Resumed

With the pump clear and the colony secured in the vacuum, the homeowner can finally get back to their pool maintenance. We’ve moved these ladies to a six-frame catch box at the apiary, where they can focus on building up their stores in a much safer environment.

Have you ever had a “plan A” fail on a DIY project? Tell us how you pivoted in the comments! If you enjoyed this rescue, make sure to Subscribe and hit the Like button to support our mission of saving one colony at a time.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Tonight’s mission was a classic example of why you should always double-check your utility covers. A new colony of African honeybees (Apis mellifera scutellata) had decided the underside of a borehole pump cover was the perfect real estate.

Working inside a tight concrete pump housing presents a unique challenge: it’s cramped, dark, and you have to be incredibly careful not to drop debris (or bees!) into the actual borehole.

The Midnight Maneuver

Because African honeybees can be highly defensive, we chose to perform this relocation at night. Working under red lights helps keep the colony calm, as bees don’t perceive red light the same way they do white light, reducing the “aggro” factor.

• The Swing Technique: The lid was long and awkward. We had to carefully lift and swing it away from the pump housing to a solid patch of ground where we could work without risk to the water system.
• The 3-Week Nest: This colony had only been home for about 20 days. They hadn’t filled the entire lid yet, but they had already built a beautiful pattern of brood comb (baby bees).

Spotting the Queen

The highlight of any removal is finding the “Mother of the Hive.” Ethan and I were meticulously vacuuming the workers when we spotted her—a magnificent queen with a long, pointed abdomen.

• The Queen Cage: Once we spotted her near the bottom of the cluster, we safely caged her. This is the “insurance policy” for a successful relocation. If the queen is in the new box, the workers will follow.
• The Brood Transfer: We cut the existing comb to fit our frames. For this job, we tried something a bit different: we placed the framed brood directly into the BeeVac with the bees and the caged queen. This allows them to start clustering and “homing” onto their own nest while we’re in transit to the apiary.

Bee-Proofing the Pump

Relocating the bees is only half the job. If we simply put the lid back, the lingering scent of wax and pheromones would attract a new swarm within days.

• The Insulation Barrier: We added a layer of synthetic ceiling insulation to the underside of the lid. By filling the void and removing the solid surface they like to build on, we ensure this pump cover is no longer a viable nesting spot.

Settling in at the Apiary

Back at the Bee Sanctuary, we moved the frames from the vacuum into a six-frame catch box.

• Right-Sizing: A smaller box is much easier for a new colony to defend and keep warm. As the season progresses and they grow, we’ll move them into a full-sized hive.
• The Release: We released the queen onto the top of the frames. By morning, the workers will have orientated to their new permanent home, far away from the borehole.

The Verdict: No Drama, No Rush

This was a textbook “no drama” removal. By taking it slow and keeping the brood intact, we’ve turned a potential plumbing nightmare into a productive new colony for our apiary. It’s a win for the bees and a win for the homeowners who need their water!

Have you ever found a surprise guest in your utility boxes? Let us know in the comments! If you enjoyed this late-night rescue, hit the Like button and Subscribe to follow this colony’s journey.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Today’s mission took us to a backyard garden for a rescue that was literally child’s play—until the weather decided to join in. A colony of African honeybees had moved into a children’s playhouse, setting up shop right underneath a small wooden toy stove.

While the location was adorable, it wasn’t safe for the kids. Our goal was to reclaim the playhouse for the little ones while giving these bees a proper, professional home.

The “Snug” Workspace

Working inside a child’s playhouse is a bit like playing a game of Tetris with your own body. It was a tight squeeze for both Ethan and me, especially with the toy stove as the center of attention.

• The Advantage: Unlike a wall or a roof removal, the toy stove was light and mobile. This gave us the option to move the “hive” to work more easily.
• The Strategy: Because the bees were exposed under the stove, we decided to use the BeeVac. This allows us to collect the bees quickly and prevents them from running into the corners of the playhouse or getting lost in the garden.

Racing the Highveld Storm

Just as we were getting into the rhythm—Ethan on the vacuum and me framing the brood comb—the sky turned. If you live in South Africa, you know how fast a summer thunderstorm rolls in. One minute it’s clear; the next, the wind is cold and the rain is coming down in sheets.

• The Danger: Bees are incredibly sensitive to cold and wet. If the colony gets soaked while exposed, it can be fatal for the brood.
• The Speed-Up: We had to pivot from a methodical pace to a total “rush job.” We focused on getting as many bees into the protected BeeVac as possible and securing the brood comb before they could get chilled.

The Garage Transfer: An Unconventional First

Usually, we transfer the bees from the vacuum into their new hive out at the apiary. However, the storm was so intense that we had to make a “field call.” We brought the entire BeeVac back to our home base and performed the transfer inside our garage.

• Safety First: It was our first time doing a garage transfer, but dry and unconventional is always better than wet and freezing.
• Settling In: The main goal was to get the bees onto the brood frames and into a calm, dry hive box as quickly as possible. Between the vacuuming and the thunder, these ladies had enough stress for one day!
• The “Stay” Incentive: We made sure to keep the brood pattern intact within the frames so the colony would recognize the scent and pheromones of their nursery, helping them settle into the new box.

The Verdict: Safe for Play

By the end of the day, the playhouse was bee-free and safe for the kids to return to their imaginary cooking. It’s a smaller colony, but with the storm behind them and some good foraging weather ahead, they should grow into a strong, productive hive over the next few months.

Do you have a favorite weather app that actually gets it right? We’re still looking for a reliable one to help us dodge these summer storms! Drop your recommendations in the comments, and don’t forget to Subscribe for more high-stakes rescues.

Want to see another unusual home?

Check out our video on removing bees from a patio couch to see how we handle colonies in even stranger furniture!

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Today’s mission brought us to Lugari, where a routine owl nesting box had been hijacked. For five or six years, a colony of African honeybees (Apis mellifera scutellata) had been turning this wooden box into a fortress of propolis and honey.

In my experience, old owl boxes are some of the trickiest jobs we face. They aren’t just high up; they are heavy, sticky, and usually occupied by a colony that is very protective of their long-term home.

The “40-Kilo” Danger Zone

When a hive has been established for over half a decade, the weight becomes your biggest enemy. Between the layers of dark comb and the literal kilograms of propolis (bee glue) sealing every crack, this wasn’t just a bee job—it was a rigging job.

• The Weight Factor: We estimated the box at over 40kg. If those screws let go before the rope takes the weight, that box becomes a falling anvil that can rip through gear and clothing.
• The Rigging Strategy: I stayed on the ground managing the rope while Ethan climbed the ladder. In high-stakes removals, you don’t try to be a hero; one person keeps the rigging safe while the other manages the “aggro” bees.
• The Wrap: Before a single screw was turned, we wrapped the entire box in a sheet. This contains the colony and prevents a “bee explosion” the moment the box is pried away from the tree.

Breaking It Free

Despite the smoke, these bees were feeling defensive. Ethan was taking stings through his gloves, but when you’re holding the weight of a colony 15 feet in the air, you can’t exactly let go.

• The Crowbar Pivot: Once the straps were tight and the center point was secured, we used a crowbar to break the propolis seal.
• The Controlled Descent: We didn’t want the box plummeting. By using a slow-release rope system, we allowed the hive to “float” down to the ground. This keeps the internal comb from collapsing, which is vital for the bees’ survival.

Transferring the Fortress: Back at the Apiary

Once safely on the ground and double-wrapped to keep the “hitchhikers” from flying around the truck, we transported the whole unit back to our Bee Sanctuary Apiary. Working at ground level is much safer for the detailed work of a “cut-out.”

• Scooping vs. Vacuuming: Unlike our furniture removals where we use a vacuum, for this owl box, we preferred hand-scooping. We shook the bees directly onto the frames to keep the transition as natural as possible.
• Preserving the Brood: We carefully cut the dark, established comb and placed it into the new frames. Keeping the brood pattern intact ensures the colony feels “at home” and reduces the chance of them absconding.
• The Propolis Fortress: The sheer amount of propolis in this box was incredible. It’s a testament to how long they’ve been there, weatherproofing their home against the elements.

The Verdict: Precision over Speed

The riskiest part of this job wasn’t the stings—it was the physics. By taking the extra time to rig the rope system and bringing the entire nest down in one piece, we ensured the safety of both the beekeepers and the bees.

This colony is now settling into a standard hive where they can be managed and protected. It takes patience to move a 40kg fortress, but seeing them thrive in their new home makes every sting worth it.

Want to see a completely different kind of challenge?

Check out our video on removing a hive from inside a patio couch to see how we handle hidden “vanishing” colonies! Don’t forget to Subscribe and hit the Like button to support our conservation efforts.

Welcome back to the Bee Sanctuary! Tonight’s mission took us to the Randpark Ridge area of Johannesburg for what looked like a straightforward removal from an outdoor patio couch. But as is often the case with the African honeybee (Apis mellifera scutellata), things weren’t quite as they seemed.

Furniture left outdoors provides an ideal microclimate for swarms—it’s warm, protected, and full of enticing wooden cavities. However, it’s also a maze of hidden corners that can make a relocation very tricky.

The “Vanishing” Colony

We started by moving the couch to a safe, open space to prevent the bees from running up the walls or under the patio.

• The Scent of a Hive: As we carried the couch, the unique smell of the hive was unmistakable. There’s really no other scent like it in the bush.
• Thermal Precision: We used a thermal camera to pinpoint the heat signature of the brood cluster. This allowed us to make an accurate cut right into the frame.
• The Disappearing Act: After opening the initial cavity and vacuuming what we thought was the whole nest, the thermal camera showed a “hotspot” still glowing deep in the frame. The colony hadn’t vanished; they had retreated.

The Secret Compartment

African honeybees are incredibly intelligent and defensive. The moment their nest is disturbed, the Queen often leads a retreat into the deepest, darkest crevice available.

• The Hidden Block: We eventually found the remaining bees packed into a tiny secondary cavity behind a wooden support block.
• Vacuum over Hand-Scooping: This is exactly why we use a bee vacuum for furniture removals. In a frame full of cracks and crevices, hand-scooping is impossible—the bees simply scuttle into the “inner sanctum” of the couch where you can’t reach them.

Bee-Proofing: The Final Step

Relocating the bees is only half the battle. If we left the couch hollow, a new swarm would be back within weeks, attracted by the lingering scent of wax.

• The Polyester Barrier: We stuffed the entire frame with polyester insulation. By removing the “void,” we ensure that this couch is no longer a viable home for future scouts.

Relocation: Settling into the Apiary

We took the colony back to the apiary and moved them into a six-frame catch box.

• Right-Sizing the Home: Even though it was a decent amount of bees, a smaller box is easier for a new colony to keep warm while they rebuild.
• The “Stay” Incentive: To make sure they don’t abscond (abandon the new hive), we provided a feeder frame with a sugar solution. This gives them the immediate resources they need to start building new comb and settling in.

The Verdict: A Future Producer

By being thorough with the thermal camera and patient with the “hidden” cluster, we saved a colony that would have otherwise required a second visit. In 18 to 24 months, these ladies will be a strong, productive part of our apiary.

Want to see how we use the thermal camera on a brick wall?

Check out our High-Tech Beekeeping Playlist for more precision rescues. Don’t forget to Subscribe and hit the Like button to support our mission!