Bees will move into just about any sheltered space, and a jacuzzi is no exception. This one had a full colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) living in the cavity underneath it. To rescue them, we first had to get the whole side panel off.

Getting Under the Jacuzzi

The panels fought us every step of the way. Until that side came off, we couldn’t see how far the colony ran. When it finally opened, we could tell straight away that these bees had been there a long time. There was stored honey everywhere, and we could smell the hive before we even started cutting.

Honey on the Outside, Brood on the Inside

Building comb on this scale takes years. Bees organise their nest in a predictable way: honey is kept on the outskirts, and the brood (the developing baby bees) is kept in the centre, where the queen is usually found.

That meant the honey had to come out first. Removing it from the areas we could safely reach gave us room to see what had been built behind it. It was winter, and the cold had made the honey thick and the comb firmer to work with.

Reaching the Brood

Once we reached the brood comb, the job changed. Brood can’t be handled like a bucket of honey. Every piece has to come out carefully so the colony’s next generation survives the move.

Some cells had been cleaned out in the middle, ready for the queen to lay eggs, and other pieces held young bees that were due to hatch within two or three days.

Pro Tip: You can tell drone brood from worker brood by the size of the cells. Drone cells, where the male bees are raised, are noticeably bigger. This colony had some of the longest, fattest drone cells we’ve ever seen.

The Final Cluster

With the brood out, all that was left was old honeycomb and the last mass of bees in the cavity. Tucked up out of sight was a large clump we hadn’t spotted earlier, and we suspected the queen was inside it, with her workers clustered around to protect her.

The cameras ran out before we could confirm whether we had her, so the final sweep and the move to the colony’s new home weren’t filmed. What we can say is that the brood made it out safely, which gives the colony the best chance at a fresh start.

Opening Up vs. Trapping Out

This removal worked because we could open the cavity and work through the colony piece by piece. When that isn’t possible, we use a slower, non-destructive approach called a trap-out.

Got bees under a jacuzzi, deck, or garden structure? Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll relocate them safely and humanely.

The thermal camera made this roof colony look manageable. It wasn’t. Every time we opened another section of ceiling, the colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) carried on past the next beam. What looked like a routine roof job turned into one of our biggest removals.

As we always say, you don’t really know until you open it up.

Opening the Roof

We started with one careful opening, using the thermal image as a guide. The first cut confirmed the colony was there, but it didn’t show how far the nest ran through the roof.

As soon as the vacuum went on, the bees moved off the comb and further back into the cavity, beyond our first access point. That’s exactly where we didn’t want them.

A Colony That Kept Going

Each new section of ceiling revealed more comb, built right across the beams. Cutting more of the ceiling would have been easier, but we tried not to cut into the comb too much so it wouldn’t drop.

After opening four sections of ceiling, we were only halfway through the comb. Above us hung a mass of bees roughly the size of two soccer balls, with more spread along the other side of the roof.

Pro Tip: A thermal camera is a great guide, but it doesn’t tell the whole story. It shows you where the colony is, not how far it extends. Always plan for a bigger job than the image suggests.

The Vacuum Problem

With that many bees, we had two new worries: whether our vacuum box was big enough, and whether the hose could reach the deepest part of the cavity. It couldn’t quite reach, so we had to change the whole setup to get closer.

Winter Made It Cleaner

It was mid-winter, and we had expected the bees to be pulled into a tight cluster. Instead, they were spread right through the roof. The cold did help in one way, though: the honey had partly crystallised, so it didn’t run everywhere the way it does in a hot summer roof. The roof’s waterproofing was also in good condition, which isn’t always the case.

Of all the roofs we’ve done, this one was definitely not easy, but it wasn’t the worst either. The only real challenge was its size.

Closing the Cavity

Once every bee was vacuumed up and every piece of comb removed, we closed off the cavity so it wouldn’t be easy for bees to return. Before leaving, we also collected a small clump of bees that had gathered outside during the removal.

Settling Into a Bigger Home

Because of the sheer number of bees, the colony went into a large hive box. By then it was around midnight, and the bees were warm, lively, and climbing all over us. They didn’t want to leave their comb.

We placed branches at the entrance of the box. This gives the bees a new landmark as they leave, which helps them reorientate to their new home instead of trying to return to the old one.

Think you have bees in your roof? Don’t wait for the colony to grow. Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll remove them safely and humanely.

It’s not often we take on two removals in one night, and it’s even rarer for both to go smoothly. Late one evening in Glenferness, north of Johannesburg, we found two colonies of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) living in the ground: one inside a borehole pump cover, and the other under a cover we couldn’t yet identify. We removed both by hand.

Colony One: The Borehole Pump

A borehole pump cover is a small concrete box sunk into the ground, and this colony had built its nest inside. It was small, three frames of comb or less, and the key was getting it out without breaking that comb.

Around the entrance was a layer of propolis. Bees use this resin to seal up their hive, and it has antibacterial and antifungal properties, so bees coming home effectively get cleaned as they walk in. It also smells lovely, almost like cinnamon.

As always for night work, we switched to red light, which bees can’t see very well. That helps keep them calm when the nest is opened.

Framing the Brood

The comb came out with only a tiny piece broken, and most of it was full of brood that was due to hatch within a day or so. Here’s how we framed it:

• Secure it: The comb sits on the frame and is held in place with elastic bands, kept off the brood where possible.
• Centre it: We cut halfway through the comb where the frame wires sit, then push it into the middle of the frame. That way the bees build exactly in the centre.
• Keep the order: The frames go into the box in the same order the comb was in the nest, so the bees recognise their home.

Pro Tip: Hand removals like this are ideal for brood. When we vacuum a colony, the brood can sit for a while without bees on it, and it needs the bees’ warmth to survive. Framing it by hand lets the bees climb back on and keep it warm almost straight away.

The first colony was done in about 25 minutes.

Colony Two: The Mystery Cover

The second colony was living under a cover over some plumbing, and we couldn’t tell how big it was without opening it up. Bees were already flooding out of one side.

We used a little smoke here, and it does two things. It makes the bees think there’s a veld fire nearby, so they gorge on honey in case they have to leave, which keeps them busy and calmer. It also masks their alarm pheromones.

Taking the Whole Thing Home

Rather than opening the nest on site, we lifted the entire cover, bees, comb and all, strapped it up, and drove it home. It’s an unusual approach, but it means every bee in the colony ends up in the new box instead of some being left behind.

Three Bounces Into the Box

At home, we tipped the cover over the hive box and gave it three firm bounces, which landed most of the bees straight inside. This colony was older, with much darker comb and far more bees than the first.

The comb was built perfectly, with the same gap between each sheet. That’s the bee space, roughly 6 to 8 mm, just wide enough for bees to pass back to back. Bees build it instinctively. Any narrower and they seal it with propolis, and any wider and they fill it with new comb.

Two Removals Complete

Two colonies, a borehole pump and a plumbing cover, both done by hand in a single night. The bees are in their new boxes, the brood is warm, and tomorrow they start building.

Found bees in a pump cover, meter box, or anywhere underground? Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll relocate them safely and humanely.

Getting a catch box into a willow tree is hard enough. Doing it solo, while a large colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) watches your every move, is a different game altogether.

This colony had been living in the tree for quite a while. Cutting into a living tree wasn’t an option, so we set up a trap-out.

The Problem with Trees

The hardest thing about removing bees from a tree is that there are always so many little holes they can use to get in and out. This willow had three separate entrances, and every one of them mattered.

A trap-out only works if the bees have just one way out. If they find a back door, they’ll bypass the trap completely. So before anything else, we had to block every hole except the one we would use for the trap.

Getting the Box into the Tree

The plan was to balance the catch box across the branches, with its entrance sitting right next to the main opening of the nest. It was tougher than expected, but we eventually got the box secured in the tree.

The Cone: One Way Out, No Way Back

The cone is what makes a trap-out work. It’s fitted over the nest entrance, and the bees can push out through the tip but can’t find their way back in. From that moment on, every bee that leaves the tree has only one place to go: straight into the box.

Pro Tip: Once the trap is set, keep an eye on it. If the bees find a new gap, you’ll need to come back and patch it, or they’ll simply go around the trap.

The 30-Day Wait

A trap-out takes patience. We sealed everything up and left the bees for a month to move into the box.

When we came back, there was no activity around the box at all. That could have meant the trap-out had failed, but it had been a cold week, and bees huddle together inside to keep warm when temperatures drop. Quiet doesn’t always mean empty.

Sealing the Tree

Before checking the box, we removed the mesh and packed the tree cavity with polyester insulation, pushing it in as deep as possible. Bees are drawn to the scent of old nests, so filling the space is the best way to stop a new swarm from moving in. We stuffed the front of the box as well so the bees would stay inside for the trip.

Did It Work?

When we lifted the box, we could hear the bees humming inside. The trap-out was a success: the colony is safe in its new box, and the tree is sealed.

Have bees in a tree on your property? Before you reach for a saw or spray, get in touch with Bee Sanctuary. We’ll relocate them safely and humanely without harming the tree.

An old oil drum lying around in the garden doesn’t look like much. But in Johannesburg, one upturned drum turned out to be home to a huge colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee). The homeowners told us the bees had been living there for years and had recently started getting aggressive.

Our thermal camera confirmed it: this was a large, well-established colony packed into a metal cylinder. The challenge was to get it out intact, ideally without breaking the comb.

An Unconventional Workbench

Our first question was how to get at the bees without disturbing the nest too early. Reaching inside the drum was possible, but the angle needed to be right.

The solution was unconventional: we lifted the whole drum onto an old stove sitting next to it and leaned it at an angle. That gave us a stable position to work from while keeping the nest undisturbed until we were ready.

The Reveal

Inside was a massive colony, built against the top of the drum, with comb close to a metre across. The comb in the middle was dark, a clear sign of a colony that had been expanding for years. Every brood cycle leaves the comb darker, denser, and stronger. We also spotted old queen cells, evidence that the colony had previously swarmed and split.

Why the Comb Was Glued to the Drum

The bees had stuck their comb firmly to the metal with propolis, the resin-based “bee glue” they make from plant sap. A steel drum heats up quickly, and in that heat the wax could soften and drop off. The propolis acts as a stronger glue and a barrier between the hot metal and the comb.

Pro Tip: Old comb is much easier to remove in large pieces than fresh comb. It’s darker, stiffer, and less likely to tear, while new, pale comb can break apart in your hands.

A Comb the Size of a Torso

We used the bee vac to gently clear the bees off each section before cutting it free. One piece came out almost the size of a torso, in one go. It was probably the cleanest removal of a piece that size we’ve done. The brood pattern on it was full and even, a sign of a healthy, productive queen.

Not everything inside the drum was honey, though. With the recent rains, moisture had built up inside the metal, and some edges of the drum were wet, which gave the comb a slightly musty smell.

Why We Work at Night

A colony this size can’t be removed during the day. The bees would be highly defensive and put people and pets nearby at risk. We work at night under red light, which bees struggle to see, so they stay calmer and we can work safely.

A New Home on Site

The homeowner already had a new hive box set up on the property, so we transferred the colony from the bee vac straight into it. We then turned the drum back upside down and cleaned up the area.

This large, well-established colony now has a safe home, without a single bee being harmed on purpose.

What’s the strangest place you’ve found bees? Whether it’s an oil drum, a wall, or a roof, get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll relocate them safely and humanely.

Not every bee removal goes according to plan. A homeowner called us after finding a colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) in the canopy of a tree. It wasn’t inside a roof or hidden in a wall. The nest was built out in the open, protected only by a thick tangle of branches above it.

That makes it an unusual rescue. African honeybees normally prefer a well-protected cavity, but this colony had decided a tree canopy was good enough.

A Working Hive, Not a Passing Swarm

The colony wasn’t massive, but it was established. Once we got close, we could see brood in the comb, which meant this was a working hive and not just a swarm resting on its way somewhere else.

The Access Problem

The comb was within reach, but the bees wouldn’t necessarily stay that way. The canopy created two problems at once:

• Escape routes: If the bees ran up into the dense, dead branches above the nest, there would be no way to get to them.
• Debris: The brittle branches and leaf litter could easily get sucked into the vacuum, which isn’t good for the bees.

Our plan was to strap the bee vac as close to the hive as possible. A shorter hose meant more controlled suction, and the bees would go into a holding box before we rebuilt their nest in a Langstroth hive.

The Bees Start Escaping the Plan

As soon as the vacuum came in, the bees did what bees often do: they moved away from the disturbance and up above the comb. We had to work slowly enough to protect them, but fast enough to stop the colony from spreading into the branches.

The Comb Reveal

As the comb came out, it was clear the colony had been doing well. Some pieces were filled to the brim with brood, a sign of a busy, healthy queen. The comb itself was beautiful.

Pro Tip: Brood is the future of the colony. The best pieces should never be thrown away. Handle them carefully and frame them into the new hive so the bees have a reason to stay.

Changing the Plan

Even after vacuuming a lot of bees, too many were still climbing into the canopy, possibly including the queen. Rather than forcing a situation that was getting worse, we decided to work with the bees instead.

We rebuilt their nest in the Langstroth box, added the vacuumed bees, and placed the box back in the tree, as close as possible to the original nest. The idea was to give the remaining bees the chance to move in on their own time, and then collect the box once they had settled.

A Bittersweet Result

When we came back two to three weeks later, the box was quiet. When we opened it, water poured out.

After heavy rain, water had got into the box, possibly because it wasn’t sitting at the right angle. The comb was full of mould, and the bees had left. Once a home stops working for them, bees won’t stay.

Real Bee Rescue

It was disappointing. We had hoped to return and collect an established colony. But bee rescue doesn’t always end with a perfect box of bees. Sometimes the best we can do is give the colony a safer option and let the bees decide.

Found a colony in a tree or out in the open in your garden? Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll do everything we can to relocate them safely and humanely.

Sometimes a bee removal works and still doesn’t go to plan. Thirty days earlier, a colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) had been living under a bath. We set up a trap-out so we could remove them without breaking open the wall. When we came back to collect them, the queen had beaten the system.

Bees Under the Bath

We were called to a retirement village in Johannesburg, where bees were flying in and out next to a drain pipe. From inside the unit, we could see that the cavity ran under the bath. Opening up the structure would have meant damage, mess, and a much bigger repair, so we chose a trap-out instead.

How a Trap-Out Works

A trap-out is a slow, non-destructive removal. You don’t open the nest at all. Instead, you give the bees a new way out that leads straight into a hive box. A cone fitted at the exit works like a one-way door: the bees can leave the wall, but they struggle to find their way back in. Over time, the foragers end up living in the box instead of the cavity.

Getting the Entrance Right

The first challenge was placing the new entrance correctly. The box has to sit flush against the wall, and the bees need to be able to reach the nest through the route we create. Our first hole was too high, so we made a second one. Then the rain rolled in, and we decided to finish the setup the next day.

That pause turned out to be useful. If the bees aren’t using the new entrance, you could wait 30 days for a trap-out that never really started. When we came back the next day, they were already using the new hole, so we could move on to the real setup.

Sealing the Trap

Sealing is where a trap-out succeeds or fails. The box has to sit tight against the wall, and every edge has to be sealed. If bees can get behind the box, under it, or back through the original entrance, they bypass the cone completely.

Pro Tip: The whole trap-out comes down to one rule: front entrance good, back entrance bad. Bees should only be entering through the front of the box. If you see them going in anywhere behind it, they’ve found a way around the trap.

It usually takes the bees two to three days to get used to their new route, and they often cluster at the front of the box while they adjust.

The Empty Box Reveal

Thirty days later, the box was empty. There was a small pile of debris the bees had carried out of the nest, but the cavity itself was clean, with no dead bees anywhere. The colony hadn’t died. It had left.

A queen guard is meant to stop the queen from escaping, but this time she managed to get out anyway and took the rest of the colony with her. Ideally we would have left the entrance fully open, but the queen guard we had on hand wasn’t big enough, so we had to block part of it.

Job Done, Just Not How We Planned

For the homeowners, the result was still a success: the bees were gone and the wall was never opened. We packed the hole with insulation so a new swarm can’t move into the same cavity, and it’s ready to be plastered and painted. The only loss was ours. We didn’t get to keep the swarm, but that’s the luck of the draw.

Have bees living in a wall, under a bath, or somewhere you’d rather not break open? Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll find the least destructive way to move them on.

African honeybees have a habit of picking the hardest spots to reach. In a kitchen in Bryanston, Johannesburg, a colony of Apis mellifera scutellata had settled into the roof behind a structural truss. The manhole was too small for our vacuum, so we had no choice but to cut into the ceiling. Even then, the bees were hiding in a blind spot. To flush them out humanely, we tried a veteran beekeeper’s secret: an almond-scented trick.

Setting Up a Clean Zone

Working inside a kitchen means keeping the mess to a minimum. We covered the counters with sheets, set up the vacuum with extra tubes to reach behind the wall, and started with a small “sightseeing hole” to find the nest before cutting further.

The hive had been there for about a month, so we expected a decent-sized colony. We could hear and see bees straight away, but the nest itself sat on the other side of a beam.

The 38°C Hot Zone

The ceiling space was about 38°C, and that kind of heat causes problems:

• Fragile comb: Fresh wax becomes so soft that if you aren’t careful, the nest can collapse and drown the bees in honey.
• Runny honey: In that heat the honey flows almost like water, which made the job much messier.
• Tight access: The hive was squeezed between beams right at the edge of the roof overhang, which made it hard to fit both a head and a vacuum tube in.

We cut the brood comb out piece by piece. The comb at the centre of the hive was darker, thicker, and much easier to handle than the fresh comb at the edges.

The Secret Almond Trick

The biggest worry in a removal like this is bees running to a spot we can’t reach. We were sure thousands more were hiding behind a thick beam at the back of the hive.

So we tried something new: benzaldehyde, a trick we picked up from a longtime beekeeper. It smells like almond liqueur, but bees can’t stand it. We were worried it might harm them, but in our experience it simply made them scatter. Placed carefully, it acts like a chemical nudge, pushing bees out of blind spots and toward the vacuum.

Did It Work?

It did. The bees clearly moved away from the scent, and more of them started gathering outside. When we climbed into the roof to check (carefully, staying on the concrete sections), we found a big clump of bees in the corner, possibly including the queen, and vacuumed them up.

Pro Tip: A lot of a removal’s time goes into chasing stragglers at the end. Using a repellent to clear the cavity before sealing it saves time and makes sure fewer bees are left behind.

Proofing the Roof

Bees are drawn to the pheromones of old nests, so once the cavity was clear, we packed it with polyester insulation. If there’s no space, a new swarm can’t move into the same spot next season.

A New Home at the Sanctuary

Back at the sanctuary, we re-homed the colony. It was no small amount of bees. Testing new methods like the almond trick is part of how we keep our removals as humane as possible.

Got bees somewhere hard to reach? Don’t try to get to them yourself. Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll remove them safely and humanely.

Bees don’t only live in walls and roofs. Sometimes they’re right under your feet. On a property in the north of Johannesburg, landscapers redoing an entrance path found a huge colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee) living inside a fibre cement curbstone. They needed the bees gone, so we came out at night to vacuum and relocate the nest.

Why We Use Red Light

For night removals with this species, we always switch to red headlamps. Bees can’t easily see red light, so it helps keep them calmer. As it turned out, this colony was already on edge.

Angry Bees from the Start

The plan was to gently lift the curb, but it was wedged tight. While we were trying to wiggle it loose with a pickaxe, the side cracked, and the guard bees poured out.

Luckily the bee vac was already running. A bee got inside the veil, so we stepped back and double-checked the zip before carrying on. We don’t usually like to use smoke, but this colony was clearly unhappy, so a little smoke helped settle things.

Exposing the Nest

When we finally lifted the stone, we found a beautiful, fresh nest. We could tell it was fairly new from the colour of the wax: new wax is pale, and old wax turns black. Bees use most of the nectar they collect to make wax, so a nest full of fresh comb means a colony that has been working hard.

Part of the comb was drone brood, which is where the male bees are raised. You can spot it by the cells, which are noticeably larger than normal worker cells.

How many bees were there? It’s hard to be certain, but judging by the volume in the catch box and the amount of comb, there were easily tens of thousands.

Interestingly, once the nest is fully opened up, the bees often become less aggressive.

Framing the Comb

The next step is to transfer the comb into frames so the colony can carry on in its new home:

• Keep the orientation: The comb goes in the same way up as it was in the nest, so it feels familiar to the bees.
• Centre it: If the comb sits off-centre, the bees build across the frames and join them together, and then you can’t get them out.
• Secure it: We trim the top straight, hold the comb in place with elastic bands, and cut a small slit where the frame wires sit so the comb doesn’t slide to the bottom of the box.

Any comb that isn’t used isn’t wasted. The honey is recycled, and the rest of the wax is rendered down into wax sheets.

Pro Tip: Putting bees back onto their own comb is the best way to get them to stay. Their pheromones are all over it, and they can smell where their queen has been.

Why Removals Aren’t Free

People sometimes ask us to do removals for free because “you get the bees.” But the bees choose whether to stay, and some fly off anyway. Even when they do stay, it takes about a year before a colony like this produces honey we can harvest.

A Bigger Home

The colony turned out to be bigger than expected, so the six-frame box we brought was a tight fit. We took them back to our nursery apiary and moved them into a ten-frame box with room to build.

Found bees under a paving stone, curb, or garden feature? Don’t try to dig them out yourself. Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll relocate them safely and humanely.

Many people think poisoning bees in the roof is a quick, cheap fix. What they’re rarely told is what happens after the bees die. We recently opened up a roof expecting a large, defensive colony of Apis mellifera scutellata (the African honeybee). What we found was a rotting, maggot-filled mess that someone else had left behind.

The IBR Roof “Oven Effect”

Our thermal camera showed a strong heat signature across roughly a metre of roof, which looked like a well-established colony. Corrugated IBR steel roofs always put us on guard. In the summer heat, these cavities turn into ovens, and African honeybees can get highly defensive in cramped, hot spaces. We switched to red lights and got ready for a fight.

An Eerie Silence

Normally, the moment Ethan breaches the ceiling board, guard bees stream out to investigate. This time, nothing came out. Instead of the sweet smell of beeswax and propolis, we were hit with the smell of decay, and the comb was crawling with maggots.

A healthy colony keeps wax moths and small hive beetles in check. When their larvae have taken over the comb, something has badly weakened the hive.

The Puzzle Pieces Fit

Then the business owner mentioned that a pest controller had recently fumigated the bees. The heat we’d seen on the thermal camera probably wasn’t a live cluster at all. It was most likely heat trapped in a fermenting mass of rotting comb.

The Ugly Truth About Cheap Exterminators

A hive can hold several kilograms of wax and honey, and only the living bees keep it cool. Once they’re gone:

• Wax melts into the ceiling boards and ruins them.
• The stench works its way into the building.
• The honey turns into a toxic sludge.

There was plenty of honey in this nest, but we couldn’t harvest a drop of it.

Cleaning Up and Rescuing the Survivors

What started as a removal turned into a clean-out. While Ethan was carving out the rotten comb, he found a small cluster of bees huddled in a corner. There was no brood and no queen. They were most likely foragers who had been out in the field when the colony was hit, and we collected them to give them a second chance.

Pro Tip: Every bit of wax has to be scraped off the steel and timber. If it’s left behind, the smell will attract the next swarm.

Sealing the Roof

Even after a thorough scrub, the scent of wax and propolis stays baked into the roof. To make sure no new swarm moves in, we packed the whole void with polyester insulation. If there’s no physical space, a swarm can’t move in.

A Completely Preventable Mess

Poisoning a hive doesn’t solve the problem. It leaves you with rotting honey, damaged ceilings, a lingering smell, and a cavity ready for the next swarm, and fixing all of that costs far more than doing it right the first time.

Got bees in your roof? Please don’t poison them. Get in touch with Bee Sanctuary, and we’ll remove them safely and ethically and seal the space so they don’t come back.